Only in Tokyo

January 6, 2020
Australian chefs Ryan and Burgess bring readers on a daylong escapade through the thrumming streets of Tokyo in this vibrantly photographed debut. Enrolling a cast of industry insiders for guidance, the chefs make their way from cramped coffee shops to back alley bars, profiling their favorite haunts. The book is roughly organized by the progression of the day, divided into morning destinations such as the “idiosyncratic” Artless Coffee, where one should “savor the wait” for an excellent pour-over coffee, and sundown spots such as Kokoromai (meaning “heart of rice”), where delicate meals center on a selection of eight regional varieties of pearly Japanese grains. Each concise profile begins with essential information: the informant who tipped the chefs off on each destination, the location, the hours of operation, why to seek it out, and what to order. The book is less an attempt to unravel the tangled net of the Tokyo dining scene than to pick glittering delicacies from its knotted folds. But the authors insist that in Tokyo, one must always allow for the unexpected: “Following these threads will often lead to your fondest memories.” This is a standout culinary guide for foodies traveling to or living in Tokyo.