How to Dress an Egg

November 18, 2019
In this chatty everyman’s guide, Kaminsky (coauthor, Mallmann on Fire) and Baldwin, “a home cook who became a restaurant chef who remains a home cook at heart,” lay out master recipes, then riff on them with variations. The basics are, for the most part, familiar: roast chicken, fish fillets with crispy skin, and eggplant cooked to the point of collapse—though braised beef tongue is one distinctive exception. Most of the combinations slant toward comfort food: roasted pork shoulder is cut into chunks and served with clams and mint, and a whole sea bass is wreathed in sweet peppers and cherries. The only sweet master recipe is for chocolate ganache that is then transformed into hot chocolate or drizzled over cheese and charred pieces of baguette for dessert. Cast in colloquial prose (accompanied by winsome hand-drawn illustrations), Baldwin’s recipes feels eminently doable, but sometimes so much so that readers may wonder whether they need recipes for four variations on hard-boiled eggs with toppings or for three different vegetables (carrots, leeks, and beets) cooked using the same “covered-pot” method. Simplicity works as both pro and con in this encouraging but not groundbreaking guide.

December 1, 2019

Chef Baldwin collaborates with food writer Kaminsky (Seven Fires) to create a collection focusing on a few cardinal foods or techniques, as well as variations on those themes. The meat and poultry entrees, for instance, each include at least four to five distinct riffs on the initial recipe. What sets this book apart is the variety of the "starter" items and the wide-ranging options that follow, which go beyond simply varying condiments or flavors to create entirely different dishes. Large full-color photos accompany most recipes, which also feature a headnote with additional suggestions and tips. Many recipes involve separately prepared components. VERDICT This collection of varied and delicious suggestions for dressing up basic key recipes is recommended for home cooks looking to add some flair to their meals.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH

Copyright 2019 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

March 15, 2020
Many home cooks have the basics down: a roast chicken, a fish fillet, a green salad. But if they don't, chef Baldwin explains how in simple terms and easy-to-follow directions. But then what? After each base recipe, several variations or serving suggestions are offered. Take those roasted carrots and make them sweet . . . then savory . . . then downright elegant! Plenty of these variations focus on simple ingredients easily sourced (fresh herbs, anchovies, bacon) but others will have readers seeking out less ubiquitous items (dukkah, Ranier cherries, pickled mango), which gives home cooks options in terms of how adventurous or decadent a table they wish to present. Despite an unfortunately high recommended temperature for pork roast, instructions are clear and simple, and explained in a breezy tone that matches the intent of the book?set a good table and enjoy a meal with good people?instills confidence, and even injects a bit of fun into the food preparation.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2020, American Library Association.)